Culinary Historians
of Washington, D.C.



Calls For Papers


Coming Events






Reading List

Related Sites

To Join

Contact Us



CHoWLine - Back Issues





September 2003

Program:"The Best of Virginia Farms "

CiCi Williamson is a cookbook author, cooking teacher, CHoW member, and national president of Les Dames d'Escoffier. Her recently published book has had favorable reviews from Washingtonian magazine and the Washington Post, among others, as "Part travel guide, cookbook, historical chronicle, and reference book."

Laura Gilliam will be in the Eckles Library at 3:30 pm. See The Book Forager below.

Future Meetings

October 19: Field Trip to Gunston Hall - heritage plants & animals
November 9: Joel Denker - Ethnic Food in America
December 14: Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall - Korean Food Traditions
January 11: Cooperative dinner - theme to be announced
February 8: TBA
March 14: TBA
April 4: TBA
May 2: Annual Meeting
May 23: Field trip to Sally and John Waltz's farm near Smithsburg, MD

Report: May 18 Meeting

New officers for the 2003-2004 year were elected by acclamation. They are:
President - Claudia Kousoulas
Vice President - Dianne Hennessy King
Secretary - Francine Berkowitz
Treasurer - Laura Gilliam
Director - Kari Barrett
Director - Katherine Livingston
Director - Kay Shaw Nelson

News Of Our Members

Rayna Green was one of the curators featured in the article on "Julia's Kitchen" in the July Washingtonian's "Insiders' Guide to Museums."

Psyche Williams-Forson extends thanks to CHoW members for all their co-operation while she was working on her dissertation, finished last December, at the University of Maryland, College Park. "It actually turned out to be quite a different project although the information from CHoW was very helpful." The dissertation is titled "Building Houses Out of Chicken Legs: African-American Women, Material Culture, and the Powers of Self-Definition." Psyche is a member of the English Department, McDaniel College, Westminster, MD. pwforson@mcdaniel.edu; pwforson@aol.com.

Helen Tangiris's Public Markets and Civic Culture in Nineteenth- Century America has been published in hardcover by the Johns Hopkins University Press. "More than simply places for buying and selling food, Tangiris explains, municipally owned and operated markets were the common ground where citizens and government struggled to define the shared values of the community."

Warren Belasco has resumed the editorship of the Journal of the Association for the Study of Food and Society.

News From Other Organizations

Saturday, September 13, 1-5 pm - "Tex-Mex: An American Regional Cuisine," the first in a series of public programs on American food and foodways presented in conjunction with the exhibition, "Bon Appetit: Julia Child's Kitchen" at the Smithsonian. Texas cooks, chefs, restaurant owners, and food writers will discuss the roots, history, and development of this popular regional cuisine. Meet the chefs. Sample some of the classic tastes from the Tex-Mex and Nuevo Tex-Mex repertoire.
1-3 pm - "Talking Tex-Mex"
Jose Alonso (Tres Rios, Alonso on the Go, Rio Grande Valley); Jorge Cortez (Mi Tierra and La Margarita, San Antonio); David Garrido (Jeffrey's of Austin and Washington); Robb Walsh (Nuevo Tex-Mex and Legends of Texas Barbecue).
3-4 pm - "Cooking Tex-Mex" cookbook signing.
3:30 - 4:30 - "Tasting Tex-Mex"
Nachos, chile con queso, pico de gallo, and more.

National Museum of American History, 14th St. & Constitution Ave., NW., Washington, DC. For more information about the program, email Rayna Green (greenra@nmah.si.edu or call (202) 357-2071.

Food Writing Workshop

"Eat Your Words: Writing About Food in Cookbooks and Other Venues," 6 sessions on Mondays (7:30 - 10pm) beginning on September 29 (not including October 6) at the Writer's Center, 4508 Walsh St., Bethesda, MD 20815. Instructor - Barbara A. Hill. Tuition - $128; $113/members. Maximum enrollment of 14.

Workshop is devoted to wide range of food writing: cookbooks, newspaper and magazine articles, and reflective personal essays. Participants will be given a series of assignments in a variety of formats, with the main focus on the participant's own writing, supplemented by examples from a variety of contemporary and classical sources. Participant's work will be distributed within the group and discussed in an open, constructive workshop setting. For information: Postmaster@writer.org; (301) 654-8664.

2004 Symposium for Professional Food Writers, an interactive conference at the Greenbrier in its 15th year. Attendance is limited to 90. For further information: www.greenbrier.com/foodwriters.

Julia's Kitchen on the Web

"Bon Appetit: Julia's Kitchen" at the Smithsonian at www.americanhistory.si.edu/juliachild. View the custom-built kitchen from Julia Child's Cambridge home as reconstructed at the National Museum of American History, Washington, DC. Visitors to the site can explore all corners of the kitchen with a special panorama feature and look behind the scenes at a selection of Julia's kitchen tools and equipment. In addition, the site is generously peppered with audio and video clips of Julia sharing her kitchen wisdom and stories. A companion site, "What's Cooking?" at www.americanhistory.si.edu/kitchen, provides a behind-the-scenes look at how the Museum came to acquire the kitchen and describes the process of documenting, moving, and cataloguing its many objects.

Research Resources

From Petit Propos Culinaires 72: "The Schlesinger Library ... is acquiring the Elizabeth David papers .... The collection of David's correspondence, diaries, travel journals, handwritten recipe files and photographs ... is expected to be available later in the year. The Elizabeth David papers will add to the Library's unparalleled culinary collections, which currently include the Julia Child papers, the MFK Fisher papers and over 16,000 cookbooks.

The Book Forager

If you would like to see how the Culinary Collection at the Eckles Library has been rearranged by subject matter rather than alphabetically by author, Laura Gilliam will be there (2nd floor) at 3:30 pm before our September 14 meeting. She will have the database on the computer. Work is still proceeding on it. Come early to search the database.

On the Bookshelf

Francine Berkowitz calls our attention to The Other Side of Russia: A Slice of Life in Siberia and the Russian Far East by Sharon Hudgins. The book is full of food stories about Siberia and the Far East, and the chapter about the Buryats is adapted from her paper that won a Sophie Coe Subsidiary Prize in Food History, at the 1996 Oxford Symposium. "...her colorful descriptions of multi-course meals washed down with champagne and vodka, often eaten by candlelight when the electricity failed. ...accounts of hors d'oeuvres made of sea slugs and roulades of raw house liver will fascinate those with adventuresome tastes, while her stories of hosting Spanish, French, and Tex-Mex dinners will come as a surprise to anyone who thinks of Russia as a gastronomic wasteland."


Donate your surplus cookbooks. Kari Barrett reports that L'Academie de Cuisine will hold another Bake and Book Sale on September 13 with all proceeds going to the DC Central Kitchen to feed the homeless. This is a follow-up on their participation in Share Our Strength's successful effort on June 3 which raised $1,000 to feed hungry children.

Donations can be dropped off at L'Academie (5021 Wilson Lane, Bethesda, MD) any time before September 12. There is street parking. After office hours, books can be left in a box or bag with your name and a note indicating they are for the sale, at L'Academie's front door. The building usually is open from 8 am - 10 pm.

If you'd like to help on the day of the sale, email amywhite@lacademie.com.

On The Reading Table

Meeting e-notice, Culinary Historians of Chicago, August 2003.
Newsletter, Culinary Historians of Boston, Vol. XXII, No. 6, July 2003.
Repast, newsletter, Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor, Vol. XIX, No. 2, Spring 2003, Vol. XIX, No. 3, Summer 2003.
Meeting e-notices, Culinary Enthusiasts of Wisconsin, June, July, August, September 2003.
Newsletter, Association for the Study of Food and Society, Spring 2003, Vol. 16, No. 1.
Newsletter, Culinary Historians of Ontario, Spring 2003, No. 36.

May, 2003 Talk

Anne L. Bower, "Reading Community Cookbooks: Recipes, History, Values, and More."