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CHoWLine - Back Issues





March 2005

Directions to Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center

Located at 4805 Edgemoor Lane in downtown Bethesda, in the two-story County office building on the plaza level of the Metropolitan complex, above a County parking garage. Parking is free on Sunday.
By car: The entrance to the parking garage is marked with a large blue Bethesda Center parking sign. If you are coming south on Old Georgetown Road (from the Beltway use Exit 36), turn right on Woodmont Avenue and the parking entrance is almost immediately on your left (second driveway).
If you are coming south on Wisconsin Avenue/Rockville Pike, turn right onto Woodmont Avenue, go south for approximately one mile, cross Old Georgetown Road, and the parking garage entrance is the second driveway on your left.
If you are coming north on Wisconsin or west on Rte. 410, take Old Georgetown Road north, turn left at the second traffic light (Woodmont Ave.) and the garage entrance will be on your left (second driveway). Take the elevators from the parking garage to the plaza level (P). The building is located at the center of the plaza. It's entrance is marked by U.S. and Montgomery County flags. Take the elevator to Level 2 meeting room.

By Metro, bus, or on foot: the building is located across the street from the Bethesda Metro station. From the station, take the escalator from the bus bay to the plaza level, turn left, walk past the clock tower and across to the Metropolitan plaza using the pedestrian bridge. If walking from any other location, the Center's street entrance is at 4805 Edgemoor Lane (corner of Old Georgetown and Edgemoor) and is marked by U.S. and Montgomery County flags. Take the elevator to Level 2 meeting room.

Program: "Family Archaeology: Excavating Kitchen Notebooks to Discover Family Food History"

Claire Cassidy will talk about the importance of food in creating the sense of family. She used "kitchen notebooks" from three generations of her family, all of whom, including her Jamaican fathr and French mother, loved to cook and eat.

Inclement Weather Plans

In the future, if we have sufficient warning about stormy weather or heavy snow, we will send an e-mail to warn of possible cancellation of a meeting, but members are advised to check by phone or e-mail with any member of the Board.

Future Meetings

April 10: Elisabetta Castleman - "Italian Regional Cuisine"
May 1: Shirley Cherkasky - "The Mediterranean's Colorful Contributions to American Confectionery"

Report: February 13 Meeting

As our tribute to Julia Child, the theme of our annual cooperative dinner was food created from recipes in her cookbooks. Here are our cooks and her recipes: Katherine Livingston - Chicken Liver Mousse; Francine Berkowitz - Gravlax with Mustard Horseradish Butter; Dianne King - Le Gateau au Chocolat "Eminence Brune"; Hi Soo and Larry Hepinstall - Crab Quiche; Felice Caspar - Apple Charlotte Creme Anglaise; Bryna Freyer - Chocolate Truffles; Claudia Kousoulas - Sunnyside Up Pastries; Shirley Cherkasky - Cold Beet and Cucumber Soup, Butternut Squash with Ginger and Garlic; Rhoda Salen - Deluxe Chicken Salad; Hanne Caraher - Marzipan Potatoes; CiCi Williamson - Spinach Quiche; Jane Mengenhauser - Meat Loaf; Laura Gilliam - Lemon Almond Tart; Corinne Hayward - Three Cheeses; Julia Abrahams - Sherry; Amy Snyder - Celeriac Remoulade; Claire Cassidy and John Rosine - Celeriac Salad and Reine de Saba Cake; Sally and John Waltz - Brownies; Kari Barrett - Gateau of Crepes; Betty and Sarah Hill - Carottes aux Fine Herbes; Angela Saunders and Maurice Silverman - Wine; Fred Seymour - Coquille St. Jacques; and Elisabetta Castleman - Chocolat Pots de Creme.

Francine Berkowitz described the focus on food at the 2005 Smithsonian's Festival of American Folklife, and asked for volunteers and ideas for demonstrations on "kitchen gadgets" for which she and Joan Nathan are making plans.

News of Our Members

Two CHoW members have recipes included in The Best American Recipes 2004-2005 (Houghton Mifflin): Ellen Ficklen, whose recipe for watermelon-based Caribbean Coolers appeared in the Washington Post, and Joan Nathan, whose story in The New York Times included a recipe for Cranberry Cornbread from a Massachusetts cook.

Best American Recipes is part of a series edited by Fran McCullough and Molly Stevens that chooses the year's best recipes from books, magazines, newspapers, and the Internet.

Warren Belasco will be participating in a panel discussion following the Environmental Film Festival's Mar. 19 showing of "The Future of Food." See Food on FIlm below for more information.

Call for Nominations

President Claudia Kousoulas has appointed a nominating committee to seek nominees for all officer and board positions for the 2005-2006 year. The election will be at our May meeting. Committee members are Julia Abrahams, Kari Barrett, Jane Mengenhauser, and Jack Warner, who have begun work. If you are willing to serve as a nominee for office, please let Julia, Kari, Jane, or Jack know as soon as possible.

News from Other Organizations

April 1:"Drink Up! Beverages in Early America, 1750-1850," a symposium at George Mason University, Fairfax, VA, sponsored by the Fairfax County Park Authority and the History Department at George Mason University. Cost $65.00. Advance registration is required by March 21. For a registration form: susan.clark@fairfaxcounty.gov; or 703 631-1429.

Longone Center's First Symposium

May 13-15: First Biennial Symposium on American Culinary History, sponsored by the Longone Center for American Culinary Research at the Clements Library, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor. This important event for American culinary history heralds the dedication of the Longone Center, and features exciting speakers on food and wine; food events, including a "Culinary Cabaret"; and tours to Greenfield Village and Henry Ford Museum. For detailed information on the symposium schedule, registration, lodging, and tours: www.clements.umich.edu, click on Longone Center, click on Symposium. Members of Culinary Historian groups from all over the U.S., and from Ontario will be there. The deadline for registration is April 22 and attendance is limited.

Shirley Cherkasky will have copies of the registration form and schedule at our March 13 meeting.

CHoW Culinary Collection

All procedures for the gift to the National Museum of American History library are complete. As soon as she hears that cataloging is beginning, Laura Gilliam will be recruiting volunteers to help.

CHoW Culinary Collection

The deed of gift has been signed by Francine Berkowitz, CHoW secretary, and returned to the Smithsonian Libraries for signatures. When all steps for the gift to the National Museum of American History library are complete, Laura Gilliam will be recruiting volunteers to help catalog the books.

HELP! Tudor Place Culinary History

Tudor Place, a historic house in Georgetown (1644 31st St., NW, Washington DC), is seeking help in culinary history research for their planned opening to the public in October 2005 of the house's service spaces; the butler's pantry, service corridor, servants' dining room, refrigerator room, and kitchen, all restored to the 1914-1923 period. The dining room will be staged for a formal dinner for six in December 1920, and all of the "behind-the-scenes" activities in the service spaces will be keyed to the preparations for a dinner party.

Tudor Place curatorial staff members have catalogued the kitchenware in the collection and have collected food bills and receipts from 1914-1923. The extensive archives have been combed for recipes and instructions relating to household management. Our help is needed in developing an appropriate menu and "approach" about the process of food preparation in the early 1920s (how kitchen equipment was used and how it differs from the cooking we do today).

The room vignettes will include: the kitchen with meal preparation, staged grocery delivery, and cleaning equipment; the servants' dining room with a servant taking a meal, and preparation of clothes by the butler; the butler's pantry, with staging area for food courses, china and silver storage, and silver polishing; and the dining room, set for a formal dinner for six celebrating the engagement of the family's son.

If you are interested in working on this project, please contact Melinda Huff, Curator of Collections: mhuff@tudorplace.org; 202-965-0400 x103.

Food on Film

The 13th annual Environmental Film Festival, March 10-20, includes several film about food: how it's grown, harvested, and prepared. For a complete schedule: www.dcenvironmentalfilmfest.org; 202-342-2564. Email: envirofilmfest@igc.org.
Here are some of the highlights: Mar. 12
12:30 pm (National Museum of American History) - "Fine Food, Fine Pastries, Open 6 to 9." Free.
4 pm (AFI Silver Theatre and Cultural Center) - Les Blank's "Chicken Real," "Garlic is as Good as Ten Mothers," and "Yum, Yum, Yum." Tickets required.
Mar. 14
12 noon and 3:30 pm (Charles Sumner School Museum) - "Silent Killer: The Unfinished Campaign Against Hunger." Free.
6:30 pm (Goethe-Institut) - "The Stolen Protein." Free.
8 pm (Embassy of Austria) - "Darwin's Nightmare." Free.
Mar. 17
5:30 pm (American University - Wechsler Theater, Mary Graydon Center) - "The Meatrix," "This Land is Your Land." Free.
Mar. 18
2 pm (Sumner School Museum) - "Think Globally, Eat Locally," and "The True Cost of Food." Free.
6 pm (Capitol Hill Starbucks) - Discussion and film "Change Is A Brewin'." Free.
Mar. 19
12:30 pm (AFI Silver Theatre) "The Future of Food," followed by discussion. Tickets required.
2 pm (American University, Wechsler Theater, Graydon Center) - "Farming the Seas." Free.

Endowed Chair in African American Culinary History at Dillard University

Claudia Kousoulas contributed this news: On February 23, 2005, The New York Times's Food Section reported that Ray Charles donated $1 million to Dillard University in New Orleans to establish a chair in "black culinary studies and other aspects of black culture." Dillard, a historically black university with 2,100 students, has begun advertising the position, which it says will be "in effect, the first professorship in African-American culinary history in the country."

The article describes the increasing attention given to academic study of food. Boston University offers a master's degree in food studies, and the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor is creating "one of the country's largest culinary research centers," with more than 20,000 books and objects.

The article goes on to note that most scholars work on the periphery, from bases in English, history, anthropology, and geography departments. Amy Bently of Boston University says, "The Dillard position signals the coming of age of food studies and the real contributions that Africans and Afro-Americans have made to American culture and particularly Southern culture."

While no one has applied for the position, the name most often mentioned is Jessica Harris, a cookbook writer, culinary historian, and journalist.

Charles had donated to many black colleges and with his gift to Dillard "wanted to honor his grandmother and those who had a collective memory of Africa and coming to the New World and creating a cuisine," said Michael Lomax, the director of the United Negro College Fund and Dillars's president at the time of Charles's gift.

Food and Drink in Museums

Both Virginia Jenkins and Katherine Livingston have called our attention to "Cookbooks and Gender in Postwar America," the theme of an exhibition on view through March in the Olin Library of Wesleyan University in Middletown, Connecticut. The brochure that accompanies the exhibit notes the emergence of several new cookbook genres in the 1950s and '60s: cookbooks for working (especially single) women without cooking experience, cookbooks encouraging men to "reclaim" the kitchen, and cookbooks (some for men, some for women, but with different criteria for success) marketed as mate-catching manuals. The exhibit contains some 40 books whose titles exemplify these themes - among them Hazel Young's The Working Girl Must Eat (1944), Betty Crocker's Picture Cookbook (1950), Esquire's Handbook for Hosts (1953), Robert Loeb's Wolf in Chef's Clothing (1950), Mimi Sheraton's The Seducer's Handbook (1962), and Helen Gurley Brown's Single Girl's Cookbook (1969), whose author, just seven years earlier, had written in the book that made her famous, "After you're married you're home a long time cooking, cooking, cooking. Better go out while the going is good!"

In the brochure, the exhibit curator, Jeffrey Makala (from whose personal collection many of the books come), writes that cookbooks, "while becoming increasingly frank and open in their discussion of the sensual pleasures of food ... ultimately served to reinforce ... a very traditional middle-class notion of married domestic respectability. At the same time they represented being single as "a state that could be enjoyed for all its pleasures ... regardless of one's gender."

The Lora Robins Gallery of Design from Nature, University of Richmond Museums, is presenting an exhibition, "Cheers! Drinking Glasses from the Permanent Collection" which displays a selection of British and Dutch drinking vessels from the last half of the eighteenth century. The objects range from an ale glass to a magnificent wine glass with Jacobite engravings. On view through July 10, 2005. The Lora Robins Gallery is in the Boatwright Memorial Library. For information: 804-287-6424.

The new Southern Food and Beverage Museum in New Orleans has a temporary venue at the Old U.S. Mint for its exhibition, "Toast of New Orleans," and its next exhibit will focus on sugar. For information: info@southernfood.org.

Want to visit some food and drink museums on your next vacation? Shirley Cherkasky has information on more than 1,000 museums throughout the world. (a href="Mailto:shircher@cs.com"> shircher@cs.com.

Food On The Shelf

This news arrived too late for our February issue: "Cookbooks and Archives: From Kitchen to Special Collections," a program on February 23 sponsored by the Archivists Round Table of Metropolitan New York, at the Fales Library of New York University, which houses the Cecily Brownstone Collection of American Cookery, with its approximately 12,000 American cookbooks and a growing archival collection related to New York food history.

On The Reading Table

Meeting notice, Culinary Historians of Chicago, March 2005.
Meeting e-notice, Culinary History Enthusiasts of Wisconsin, March 2005.
Meeting notices, Culinary Historians of New York, February, March, 2005.
Food History News, FHN 63, VOl. XVI, No. 3.
Culinary Chronicles, newsletter of the Culinary Historians of Ontario, Winter 2005, no. 43
Meeting e-notice, Foodways Group of Austin, February 2005.
Meeting e-notice, Culinary Historians of Northern California, February 2005.

Food Fun

From Virginia Jenkins' e-mail:
Please join me in remembering a great icon of the entertainment community. The Pillsbury Doughboy died yesterday of a yeast infection and complications from repeated pokes in the belly. He was 71.

Doughboy was buried in a lightly greased coffin. Dozens of celebrities turned out to pay their respects, including Mrs. Butterworth, Hungry Jack, the California Raisins, Betty Crocker, the Hostess Twinkies, and Captain Crunch.

The graveside was piled high with flours. Aunt Jemima delivered the eulogy and lovingly described him as a man who never knew how much he was kneaded.

Doughboy rose quickly in show business, but his later life was filled with turnovers. He was not considered a very smart cookie, wasting much of his dough on half-baked schemes. Despite being a little flaky at times, he still was a crusty old man and was considered a roll model for millions.

Doughboy is survived by his wife, Play Dough, two children, John Dough and Jane Dough, plus one they had in the oven. He is also survived by his father, Pop Tart. The funeral was held at 3:50 for about 20 minutes.