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CHoWLine - Back Issues





December 2003

Program:"Growing Up in a Korean Kitchen"

Hi Soo Shin Hepinstall is a graduate of Ewha Women's University is Seoul and began her culinary and cultural research while living in Europe in the 1970s. In 1983, after receiving a certificate from the Cordon Bleu in Paris, she continued her culinary studies in Seoul and Southeast Asia. She currently teaches in both Korea and the U.S. and is a weekly newspaper columnist.

Important Information about Parking on Campus:

No parking is permitted in the circle in front of the Library or on the Quad. You may par in metered spaces (no charge on Sunday) in the parking lot on the right inside the W Street entrance, or in the campus metered parking garage off Whitehaven ($1.50/hour). Parking on W Street is not encouraged.

Future Meetings

January 11: Cooperative dinner - theme to be announced at the December meeting.
February 8: Helen Tangires - Public Markets and Civic Culture in 19th-Century America
March 14: TBA
April 4: Farmers' Markets
May 2: Annual Meeting
May 23: Excursion to Sally and John Waltz's farm near Smithsburg, MD

Seoul Food

Kari Barrett has asked that anyone planning to provide refreshments for our December meeting contact her: (301) 460-4598.

Last Notice About Membership Renewal

And last issue of CHoWLine unless the treasurer has received your dues. Our membership year runs from October 1 through September 30. The new membership directory will be mailed to members right after January 1, 2004.

Report: November 9 Meeting

Refreshments preceding the meeting were in keeping with its theme: Kari Barrett brought baklava; Debby Warner provided fealfel and sauce, and Francine Berkowitz supplied halvah. There were two "whatzits" offered by Carter and Willis VanDevanter: a microwave omlet pan, which was identified immediately by those more familiar with contemporary kitchen equipment, and an antique knife sharpener which puzzled almost everyone.

Warren Belasco promised to keep CHoW informed on plans he has been discussing with Rayna Green for a possible one-day food conference at the National Museum of American History, in connection with "Julia Child's Kitchen." It was suggested that CHoW members might bring to future meetings any cookbooks that they wish to give away. A requested show of hands indicated that there was sufficient interest in a field trip to the Woodrow Wilson House (and its kitchen) for a date to be scheduled after January 1.

Joel Denker talked about his recently published book, The World on a Plate.

Muffuletta Origins

A question arose after Joel's talk about the origin of the term 'muffuletta,' which seems to be peculiar to New Orleans. Claire Cassidy searched it out in the Dictionary of American Regional English (DARE), published by Harvard/Belknap Press and edited at the University of Wisconsin, originally by Frederic G. Cassidy and, following his death, by Joan Hall. Four volumes have appeared and work is progressing on the fifth and sixth. Each volume requires about five years to complete. Here is what Clare's search revealed:
Muffulette is Sicilian dialect for a small soft roll - with variants including muffa, mufalatta, muffaletta. In the U.S. the word is thought to refer to the same thing as a "poor boy," "hero," "submarine," "a sandwich on a large, round bun, consisting of various meats, cheeses, and olive salad with an oil dressing; the bun used to make this sandwich." (Vol. III, p. 722)

The earliest usage found was 1969 in New Orleans, from an interview. In 1979 a field- worker reported that "the sandwich is not universally known" by this name but the word was in use in Baton Rouge at two restaurants, and in New Orleans at the Metairie restaurant.

New European Food Journal

Further information on the new scholarly journal, Food & History, being published by the European Institute of Food History (IEHA), and mentioned in our November issue: its web site is www.ieha.asso.fr.

On the Bookshelf

In October Gina Jenkins alerted CHoWLine to Feasting and Fasting with Lewis & Clark: A Food and Social History of the Early 1800s by Leandra Zim Holland, a Western writer on food history and food travel, but inquiries at local bookstores were fruitless. We have learned that it is being released this month, and has had good reviews.

Sally Epskamp's hunt for an out-of-print book prompted a search through the CHoWLine editor's files for potential sources of used books on food subjects. Here is a list, culled from back issues of Food History News, culinary historians' newsletters, and other sources, some perhaps outdated:

Powell's Books for Cooks, 3739 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland, OR 97214; (800) 354-5957; (503) 235-3802; www.powells.com.

Food Words (Johan Mathiesen), 3044 SE 9th Ave., Portland, OR 97202; (800) 880-4314.

Food Heritage Press (Joe Carlin), 15 Kimball Ave, Ipswich, MA 01938; (978) 356-8306; jcarlin@foodbooks.com.

Wine and Food Library (Jan Longone), 1207 W. Madison St., Ann Arbor, MI 48103; (734) 663-4894.

Lewis & Clark, Books on Food and Drink, 5405 Woodland Forrest Dr., Tuscaloosa, AL 35405 (Mostly rare books)

Bee & Thistle Books (Meg Ferguson), 11 Gay Rd., Brookfield, MA 01506; (508) 867-6748; bandtbks@hey.net.

Acanthus Books, 830 W. Main, #150, Lake Zurich, IL 60047; (847) 726-9811; Acanthusbk@aol.com.

The Owl At The Bridge, 25 Berwick Lane, Cranston, RI 02905-3708; (401) 467-7362; Owlbridge@aol.com; www.bibliofind.com.

Kitchen Arts and Letters (Nach Waxman), 1435 Lexington, New York, NY; (212) 876-5550. (Mostly new books)

Astor House Books (Mary Haskell) Box 1701, Williamsburg, VA 23187; (757) 220-0116.

Jessica's Biscuit, Box 301, Newtonville, MA 02460; (800) 878-4264; www.jessicasbiscuit.com.

Bonnie Slotnick Cookbooks, 163 West Tenth St., New York, NY 10014; (212) 989-8962; bonnieslotnickbooks@earthlink.net. (Open 1-7 pm most days, and by appointment)

On The Reading Table (December Meeting)

We have just begun a newsletter exchange with the Culinary Historians of New York, in addition to our exchanges with Toronto, Ann Arbor, Chicago, and Wisconsin. The Houston and Southern California historians seemed to have ceased publication. With Food History News, Gravy (SFA), the ASFS newsletter, and the Culinary Historians of Boston, CHoWLine's editor's personal membership provides the newsletters. We are hopeful of hearing from inquiries sent to culinary historians of Southern California and Hawai'i.

Meeting e-notices, Culinary Enthusiasts of Wisconsin, December 2003.
Newsletter, Culinary Historians of Boston, Vol. XXIV, No. 2, November 2003.
Newsletter, Culinary Historians of New York, Vol. 17, No. 1, Fall 2003.
Meeting Notice, Culinary Historians of New York, December 2003.
Repast, newsletter of the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor, Vol. XIX, No. 4, Fall 2003.
Food History News, FHN 58, VOl. XV, No. II.